I carry several different types of foundations in my kit, but these are my tried and true little soldiers that never ever let me down. They’re all professional brands meant for photography so any skin challenge is easily disguised. When I use a powder, Dermablend’s Mineral Powder is what I often use to set because it gives additional coverage (and can be used daily on its own) but dissolves into the skin without sitting on top. Koh Gen Do’s Maifanshi was a pleasant surprise I discovered years back. It’s the best non-cream I have with a ton a great coverage and some moisture that doesn’t drag over dry skin (a common problem here in Colorado.) When someone is really dry or has mature skin, I grab my Eve Pearl Dual compact because it’s the most moisturizing of the bunch and leaves behind a pretty glow that makes otherwise sallow skin look alive. When I’m on TV or have an event where I’ll be photographed, I even use Kett’s Fixx Créme which is probably my most used of the bunch. It glides on but doesn’t drag and it looks so completely natural that skin looks just as perfect in person as it does on camera. The fact that it’s waterproof is just icing on the cake.
For a real-deal full coverage makeup, you have to browse the professional brands. If you need tattoo coverage for a wedding or if you have a scar, veins, or birthmarks that you can’t seem to disguise, Kryolan will do the trick. Their Dermacolor is one of the few out there that’s carried in Makeup Artist’s kits because it’s known to cover anything and everything with the added benefit of being smudge and waterproof.
Dab on this ultra thick cover in small amounts at a time and blend completely using a sponge until what you want covered is gone. Take your time because with this formula it’s easier to add more than to try to take color away.
I get confused looks when I answer the question that most of my clients want answered: What’s my very favorite foundation that I carry in my kit because the cult following of Koh Gen Do’s Maifanshi Moisture Foundation hasn’t quite trickled down to the masses. It’s a well-loved staple though for Makeup Artists and their celeb clientele as is their Cleansing Spa Water, something I’ve wanted to try since I saw it in practically every Makeup Artist’s kit backstage at New York’s Fashion Week. Typically, I carry baby wipes to clean client’s faces because it’s so quick and easy, but I needed something to remove stubborn waterproof mascara without burning or stinging the eyes so I couldn’t wait to try another solution out.
It’s a totally unassuming looking liquid; crystal clear and completely unscented, but it’s a soapless, mineral-rich cleanser that gets skin sparkling in just a few wipes. It comes with special cotton pads that you saturate and use to gently work off makeup or to give skin a refreshing once over in the morning. No need to rinse after or even tone because your skin will feel perfectly balanced and so soft.
I’m loving this ease and effectiveness of the water- not to mention how much space it saves in my kit. It’s one of those things that I’ll actually order and use again and again.
Have you read the new reports on the hazards of spray tanning? DHA, what’s used to darken the skin and found in every self tanning formula, has been shown to be dangerous when inhaled by the FDA. But I already knew that..
Let me back up a few years.
In early 2010 I went to an airbrushing class in L.A, they also had a spray tanning machine that I fell in love with and bought so I could spray my brides tan before their weddings. It was a hit. Everyone wanted a tan and the system was so easy to use and the color it gave was so pretty that I was tanning clients almost daily during my busy season. I used a walk in shower in a rarely used bathroom in our basement for the tanning sessions where I always had the fan running so it would suck up the fumes. Perfect right? Not so much.
Months later when my busy wedding season was coming to a close, I started having issues with my memory. Not just of the ‘where are my keys’ variety, but on top of short term loss, every time I would talk, I couldn’t find the words I wanted to say. I knew the first time it happened that something was wrong. My mind drew a blank like it never had before and thinking of words as simple as ‘continue’ or ‘besides’ would be gone without a trace. I knew what I wanted to say, but couldn’t place the words which became so frustrating that I’d stop mid sentence and try to focus on what I wanted to say. “Hang on” I’d say while I thought in silence, frustrated at what had become of my typically razor sharp vocab. I started Googling around for what it could be – Alzheimer’s maybe? Early onset dementia? Then a few months later like a bolt of lightening, it came to be from nowhere: It’s the airbrushing.
I’d been inhaling airbrush fumes almost daily between the spray tanning and the makeup often times in my office or a hotel suite where brides get ready where good ventilation and circulated air isn’t ideal. I knew I was breathing it in and often had difficulty taking in full breaths after working a long day, I also started becoming winded more easily walking short distances, just out of shape I’d think to myself, nothing more. My clients were so happy with their beautiful tans and makeup that I was hesitant (to say the least) about quitting this new skill that I had perfected and marketed like crazy. But my feeling about the airbrushing contributing to my memory loss came to me so swiftly and so clearly that I resolved to give up spray tanning and using the airbrush makeup to see if things would get any better. It was bittersweet to say the least and hard to explain to frustrated brides about how I can’t use the airbrush foundation for their wedding even though it’s what they fell in love with for their trial run and told their bridesmaids they’d have their makeup sprayed on to create perfect skin. It wasn’t easy, but it was worth it in the end because within 6 months or so my word finding was finally back to normal, as was my breathing and memory loss and I felt like myself again.
Here’s the part where I say that I have no proof that airbrushing caused my memory and word finding problems, it’s just what I experienced.
For me, I won’t be spray tanning anytime soon and I haven’t used my airbrush but a few times in the past two years. Enough time has passed where the fear died down I think because recently I started to consider using it again if I’m outside or near an open window since I really loved the results. Playing with fire, I know.
As for the new warnings, spray at your own risk. Personally, I think the handheld airbrushing is more pointed and controlled than the Mystic tanning booths that just spray the hell out of you while standing in an enclosed box so if you must spray, choose the spray-by-hand option and ask about ventilation and how long it takes. 10 minutes or so is probably reasonable. Check out the full report via ABC News below.
If you love wearing mineral eye shadow but hate the creasing and limited wear time, I have a perfect solution. I’ve slowly been replacing makeup mainstays in my kit with their natural or mineral counterparts when I find something that performs as well or better. My requirements? It has to show up well on the skin, blend easily, and wear 12+ hours to make the cut. Unfortunately, even though I wear them quite often, mineral shadows haven’t given me the confidence to be kit worthy until I recently found the perfect solution. It’s all about the Temptu Mixing Medium baby.
Temptu is really known as a professional airbrush line but maybe you’ve tried their wildly popular at-home airbrushing system at Sephora? The heart of their business is still geared toward professionals who use airbrush for their business which is where Mixing Medium is sold although you don’t have to be a professional to buy it (yay!)
Mixing Medium is a silicone-based multi-use lotion that can be used for a ton of different stuff that I’ll get to in a second, but in this case I’m using it to bring intensity and a much longer wear time to a mineral shadow.
Here’s how I use it.
I’m starting with my sample size of Alima Pure Catwalk Eyeliner, one of my favorite mineral makeup lines.
Now here’s where the magic happens; see that tinsy little whitish dab on the lid? That’s the Mixing Medium and how little I use. Gather a little powder on your brush to scoop a little into the lid to blend it with the liquid making a thick paste.
Now the swatches side by side, on the right is with the Mixing Medium. You can see more of an intensity (especially in person where you can pick up the detail better than my lens did) but beyond that is how this newly formed cream gives such better wear. Like hours longer. Many hours. This turns any ho-hum mineral shadow into a more intense, long-wearing shadow fit for any Makeup Artist’s kit.
It also shines when you use it with mineral powder concealers turning it into a creamy one that wears well and doesn’t look cakey or powdery. It also gives glittery pigments something to stick to if you pat it on the lid before applying so they stay on without flaking away. If your foundation is a bit too heavy, mix a few drops in to thin it out and keep the color and performance just the same. Basically, it can turn any makeup powder into a longer wearing, more intense cream or thin out a cream so it isn’t so heavy on the skin. It does it all.
I love Mixing Medium, I’ve had it in my kit for years. I did have to get used to thinking to grab for it, but now I use it all the time because it’s so cool. There are some things in my kit that are best suited for pro use, but Mixing Medium just isn’t one of them. Check it out- I think you’ll really love it too.
Temptu Mixing Medium