Makeup Before and After: A Perfect Example of Why Not to Cover Up Freckles

Another day, another beautiful bride. Here’s a recent trial run with the low down on her look.

before and after

Lips:

I combined a nude liner with tipsy, a LipSurgence light coral gloss from tarte to make her lips look a little fuller. These shiny glosses get a lot of use in my kit especially for girls who aren’t die-hard lipstick wearers but still need some color and shine.

tarte gloss

Highlighter:

Just two days after Hourglass sent their Ambient Lighting Palette to me, I tossed out 4 other highlighters I was carrying in my kit. This one is incredible and all I’ll need. It’s this fine powder that isn’t heavy or shiny looking, almost  like a movie effect, or an Instagram filter, or a dusting of Photoshop for your real life face. Use it on cheekbones or wherever you’d like to highlight, since it’s so light it’s tough it over-do. Here I dusted some along her cheekbones so you can just see a glimpse of it from a forward facing angle. It’s a must-try for those looking for an instant boost to their complexion.

hourglass

Concealer:

Her slight discoloration around the eyes was easily zapped using Miracle Skin Transformer’s Treat & Conceal concealer. I’ve used it off and on in my kit, but I’m personally on my 3rd tube since discovering it years ago on a California trip. I was having some issues with the concealer I’d been using for years attracting powder to it (shadows) thus causing darkness under the eyes about 20 minutes after I’d finished an application. The best thing about Treat & Conceal is its consistency which feels like a whipped primer – not heavy or overly creamy so it settles into skin quickly and completely leaving the surface feeling like there’s nothing there.

miracleskintransformer_treatconceal_new_900x900

Foundation:

I never cover freckles. They’re adorable and such a big part of what makes someone look like ‘them,’ but it also adds some color so if you do try to erase them you’ll just end up looking pale. I use Koh Gen Do’s Maifanshi Moisture Foundation a ton because it makes skin look better, and not like a mask. This is a perfect example of evening out the skin without over-doing it to death. That’s why this is a great pro foundation and everyday choice too.

koh gen do

Before and After: When the Bride is Your Future Sister In Law!

Thank God my brother Chad had the good sense to marry Lori, an adorable Canadian-born girl who he met on a cruise a few years ago. Before they headed out for their wedding (also a cruise- duh), she stopped over to see me for a makeup lesson and to create a special look for their wedding (that we would sadly miss.) I sat her in front of a mirror and had her mimic what I applied to one side of her face on the other. You can’t tell which side was mine and which was hers can you? She nailed it! She also remembered everything so she looked gorgeous for the wedding too. Here are the highlights for what I used.

Foundation: Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture Foundation
Powder: Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Face Powder
Concealer: Laura Mericer High Coverage 

Lashes: Ardell #120

Lips: Tarte Park Avenue Princess over a nude liner

Much of the other makeup was her own so she could duplicate the look without buying anything new.

20140427-183905.jpg

Tarte is one of my go-to lines that I’ll actually buy whenever I’m out of something because I’ve never been let down by anything I’ve tried. Their new LipSurgence gloss in Park Ave Princess is THE color for summer- a shimmering nude that you have to have! It’s that perfect not-pink, not-brown, not-orange perfectly balanced kinda nude with some light shimmer that flatters all. I’ve been using these LipSurgence glosses every day for a light glaze of color with the right amount of shine. Other than Park Ave Princess, I’ve been wearing Tipsy a lot (second from right), a coral that doesn’t look orange on. A coral gloss is the perfect antidote to the pink routine I’ve gotten into when it comes to my lip wear. Such a cool shade.

tarte lipsurgence
tarte LipSurgence glosses

tarte gloss
That’s Park Ave Princess on the far right- an instant classic!

The other new thing I used was Laura Mercier’s new concealer- high coverage which definitely lives up to its name. The tiniest amount goes a very long way to disguise dark circles and brighten the eye area. Don’t expect a creamy texture like with their Secret Concealer, this is on the drier side so make sure your skin is well moisturized before laying it down. I’ve used it on clients with really dark circles and it covers so well every single time. I would recommend it for someone in their 20’s and 30’s so it won’t settle into fine lines- a common issue with thicker concealers in general.

mercier

How to Wear a Pink Primer

Koh Gen Do is a pro line beloved by Makeup Artists that has crept its way into the mainstream because of its everyday wearability. Their foundation is still a go-to in my kit, but now their primers are slowly replacing the silicone ones that were once the only pre-foundation option. Theirs come in 4 shades depending on what your skin’s needs are, I use this Lavender Pink one a ton to perk up otherwise dull skin. You can wear it under foundation of course but I like to use it on top of it, right under the eyes to add brightness and light.

Below you’ll see a before and after along with how much I use. There isn’t a pinky appearance at all, just a brighter look. It’s especially helpful for tired eyes to look more awake without piling on dark makeup. It’s a trick I’ve been using a lot lately on myself given how tired I’ve been and it really makes me look less haggard and a little more put together.

20140528-103618-38178610.jpg
Before, how much primer I used under my eyes, then after.

20140528-103900-38340268.jpg

Before & After: Just the Basics

Liz, a  bride with an upcoming wedding I got to work with last week has pretty much the ideal face; big eyes, full cheeks, and pouty lips.  I can see why she isn’t a fan of the overly made-up look since she really doesn’t need to wear much day-to-day, so I created a timeless look that she (thankfully) loved using the basics that I reach for over and again in my kit.

What I used:

Face:

Primer: Hourglass no 28
Foundation: Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture Foundation
Concealer: Smashbox High Definition
Setting Spray: Caudalîe Beauty Elixir
Powder: Koh gen Do Maifanshi Face Powder

Eyes:

Primer: Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Makeup Color Base Lavender Pink
Eye Shadow: Urban Decay Naked 2
Liner: NYX Super Skinny Eye Maker
Mascara: NYX Doll Eye
Lashes: Ardell #110
Brows: Anastasia Brow Duo

Cheeks:

Smashbox Blush Rush

Lips:

Liner: Philosophy The Supernaural (discontinued)
Gloss: NYX Mega Shine Lip Gloss 104 Sweet Heart

image

A few things:

I’m finding that my go-to concealer these days is Smashbox High Definition. It’s creamy and covers everything so well but also blends into the skin with minimal creasing.

I start with the face first, once you get the skin right the color is easy. I spray the Caudalîe Beauty Elixir on the skin as I blend the foundation which helps it to melt into the face leaving the foundation looking invisible.

Koh Gen Do has pretty much the best everything when it comes to primers, foundations, and powder. I buy it, I use it on myself and in my kit, I love it. Seriously, this line is hard to beat. Yes, it’s pricey but it’s worth it because of how it conceals while leaving the skin so natural and almost dewey looking. Their products do what’s promised.

Everyone in the world should own that NYX gloss. It’s the prettiest shimmery nude ever.

Makeup Before and After: Liner and Lips

How adorable is this ‘girl next door’ bridesmaid whose makeup I got to do recently for a wedding? On girls like this who are so naturally beautiful to begin with, I really like to do a more casual, unstructured look that flatters without looking heavy. Could you imagine if I drew a big swoopy cat eye on her? Or did something really smokey? It just wouldn’t work. Filling in her brows, evening out her skin out, and adding some bronzer made a big difference, but her sparkly blue eyes and full lips were definitely the focal point.. Here’s what I used to make them front and center.

20130926-202541.jpg

My pencil liners have been getting a lot more use than the gel ones I’ve always carried in my kit because of the unstructured look they give. Laura Mercier’s long wearing pencils glide on so smoothly and wear as long as any gel. Typically a pencil this soft is the first to smudge, but this formula is as close to perfect as it gets. For this look, I used Noir (black) on her top lash line and Slate (charcoal) to line below. Using grey to line under her eyes looks less harsh than using just black all the way around.  Try it using a violet, blue, or ivy liner- just use a black liner on your top lid, then any color along the bottom. It’s a modern and easy way to wear colored eye liners and a fun departure from ho-hum black.

Laura-Mercier-Summer-2013-Longwear-Creme-Eye-Pencil
Laura Mercier longwear crème eye pencils

Since she didn’t like the heavy look of lipstick, I lined her lips in a neutral pink and used Jouer Lip Sheer SPF 15 in Santorini over top. It’s a perfect, universally flattering pink that’s lightweight and moisturizing. You can use them solo (as I typically do since I use mine all the time in place of lip balm) or with a liner to deepen the color if you’d like. Either way, you’ll love how soothing they are, and their casual color that works for any occasion or no occasion at all.

jouer lip sheer
Jouer Lip Sheer SPF 15

Makeup Before and After: How to Use Yellow Primer

I was dying to try Koh Gen Do’s Yellow Primer ever since I saw this now infamous photo of it slathered all over Kim Kardashian’s face. Though my technique isn’t the same as her MUA Mary’s, I use it all the time and am addicted to the gorgeous highlight it gives the skin. How did I ever live without it? Pre-foundation I apply a good amount of it under the eyes- all the way across like a half moon and down to the tops of cheeks, I also use it down the bridge of the nose, the center of the forehead, and also on the chin. There are many ways to highlight the skin, but this is how I use this product and get great results.  Because it’s a primer and not a foundation or concealer, the yellow pigment isn’t too dense which can make the skin look sallow.

I used Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture Foundation over the primer which has been a staple in my kit for years. As you can see the coverage is perfection and it’s undetectable so it doesn’t look at all heavy. It’s a staple for so many Makeup Artists, but you can use it as a daily foundation too.

After highlighting the skin, I needed to put some depth back in so I used a ton of Jouer’s Mattifying Bronzer aroud her hairline, cheeks, and even down her neck and decloté to give her a bit more color and ensure that her face would match up with her neck. I don’t like bronzers that have shimmer in them which I think give a really tacky Jersey Shore sort of look. Jouer’s are shimmer-free and give a subtle, natural looking glow which is why they’ve become the most used in my kit. This new formula mops up shine by keeping the skin matte, an unusual bonus for a bronzer.

One of my very favorite things I’ve tried this summer is Laura Mercier’s Kohl Liner Extreme,. The black is so rich and deep that a little goes a long way, but it’s the ease of application that I love best. The slightly creamy formula comes to a dull tip that’s a bit wider than a traditional pencil so it’s easy to draw a line on the lid or smudge it into your waterline. If you feel like you can never get your liner on right, you have to try this one out. It will make your liner application 10x easier.

20130827-202249.jpg

20130827-212701.jpg